DIY Console Table

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Isn’t it annoying when you need a certain piece and you want to just go buy it. But it just doesn’t exist or is super expensive? It really really is. However, I find a lot of times its not that hard to build your own. Even if you are a newbie to building. This SUPER simply DIY Console Table is a great place to start.

I needed a side table for my desk. If you check out my office tour, you will see I had spot with hanging folders. That is what is being replaced with a table. In order to get things like files and my planner off my main work space. I didn’t need it to be large but wanted it to cover the space between the desk and cabinet. It also needed to let me keep my shredder, recycling and garbage below it and easily accessible. Style wise, I love Mid Century Modern. So I decided to do a style that fit in with those pieces in my home.

Tools Needed

Here are tools that are definitely needed. In addition there are a few that are optional.
Must have list:
–Saw – I used a COMPOUND MITER SAW. However, a CIRCULAR SAW will also work.
–DRILL– bits needed are a small drill bit (I used 1/8″). Including the appropriate screwdriver drill bit. However, this will depend on your particular screws.
MEASURING TAPE
Optional Items:
KREG JIG
ORBITAL SANDER
CORNER CLAMPS
PAINT TRIANGLES

Non-Tool Supplies

Once you have your basic tools. You will need the rest of the items to finish the project. I used 1 Pine board that is 1″ x 12″ x 8 ft. I purchased a nicer board than the basic lumber section. This is often referred to as choice or furniture grade. It is more expensive but the corners are not rounded. And it will have less knots, be higher quality and need less prep work.
Then, I purchased HAIRPIN LEGS from Amazon. I love Mid-century Modern style and these fit in well with my other pieces. Finally you will need safety goggles, 200 Grit Sandpaper, screws, paint brushes or foam sponge type brushes, stain, polyurethane and latex gloves.

Directions

I promise this is a SUPER easy table. We are essentially building a box and then adding legs. My table is 32″ long, about 32″ high and 11.25″ deep. I know you are wondering if I bought a 12″ board why it isn’t that deep. A crazy person a long time ago decided boards would not be the actual size they claim (just kidding, I have zero idea why). So, all boards are slightly smaller than we refer to them as. And yes this drives me insane.

Step 1

Cutting your board. Accordingly you will need 2 identical boards twice. My measurements were 32″ long (twice) and then a 6″ (twice) cut. In my saw I had to do 3/4 of the cut, flip the board and cut again.

Step 2

Kreg Jig (if you are using one) the holes in to the side pieces. At this time, you will need to decide which direction you want them and which of the side pieces will be inside (the ones you put the holes in). Respectively, I went ahead and did 3 screws per side piece. However if you choose NOT to use a Kreg Jig, you will need to use L-BRACKETS on the inside. This is for the top only. 2 brackets on each side will be plenty.

Step 3

Sand. Sand all your boards until any splinters, filler or gunk is removed from them. If you chose a choice board, use 200 Grit sandpaper and go over it all quickly. Be sure to sand WITH the grain of the board, not against it. Also be sure the edges of your boards are perfectly even. Occasionally a saw will leave a bit of a jump on a board. It is easily fixed by a quick sand.

Step 4

Assembly. I like to assemble first. Therefore you can work out any issues with a bit of sanding. If you stain first or paint all your pieces you don’t have any ability to adjust once assembled.

First, you want to put the top and side pieces together. If you have used the Kreg Jig you will want to line those holes up with the edge of the top board, on the inside. Then using the Corner Clamps to hold it in place, screw it together. If you don’t have corner clamps, simply ask someone to hold it for you while you screw down. Be sure to watch for any shifting of the board. And then you screw it together.

If using the L-Brackets, screw them to your side pieces first. Then you will line up with top board edges. Use the corner brackets, or second set of hands and screw in to the top. Be sure your screws are short enough they don’t poke through the board top!

Once the top is secured safely to the sides put the top down on the work space and line up your bottom piece.

You will line it up and then screw down. I recommend using a small drill bit (1/8″ or so) to pilot hole where your screws will be. This will help reduce the likely hood of splitting or cracking the board. You won’t see these so the screws just need to be sturdy. I used 3 deck screws on each side.
TA-DA! You have the top of your table assembled!!!

Step 5 – Optional

On account of how you assembled above, you will notice holes in your project. You can fill them in. If you used the Kreg Jig, they make special fillers to fit the hole you made. However I chose not do this. Where my table is you will not see these holes and I like to change things up. So, this leaves me more options.

Step 6

Sanding. Yep we have to do this again. Here is where you can fix any boards that weren’t perfectly lined up when assembling or any quick places you missed. Also if you filled holes you will need to sand those areas until they are flush with your board.

Step 7

Finishing. You can stain or paint your piece. Here is where you use the paint triangles. Paint or stain the bottom first. Then you will flip it on top the paint triangles and you can finish the rest.
For staining you should condition the wood first. However I always skip this step with pine. Pine is a soft wood and I rarely have issues with it taking stain evenly. I used NATURAL MINWAX stain and a SATIN POLYURETHANE finish.
If you are painting, do at least one coat of good primer before applying your color. Even if the paint claims its an all-in-one. This will help hide the grain of the board and keep your finished color looking smooth and uniform. Its recommended to do 2 coats of paint no matter what it says.
I did 1 coat of stain and 2 coats of poly. I sanded lightly with 200 Grit between coats of poly. Leave for 24 hours to dry and cure. If it is hot or muggy outside allow to dry for several hours then bring it inside and give it 24 hours to cure in better temperatures.

Step 8

Assembly! Finally we have been waiting for this moment. Now you will now put on the legs. Unfortunately my legs came with screws that were too long for the piece I made. Therefore I switched to 3/4″ long screws. Anyhow, you won’t see them so I just used silver ones we had. However if you are buying new screws you could buy black to match.
I put mine 1/2″ from the sides. The included directions recommended other measurements. But my project was not a coffee table or dining.

FINALE!

And you are done! Now you have an amazing console table that is JUST the size you wanted it. And you get full bragging rights because you made it. Have you ever made any furniture?